Sumba

The Island

Sumba is remote. Don’t count on reliable Wi-Fi or cell signal. The roads are questionable. Most of the “cities” here take all of two minutes to drive through. But if you can handle the logistics, you’re rewarded with rolling green hills, tiered rice paddies, pristine beaches, and lagoons that actually sparkle. The locals live in villages filled with traditional tall, pointy, straw covered houses. They bury their dead in giant tombs right in the front yard. You’ll see wild horses roaming everywhere, and you’ll get used to the sound of kids laughing and running alongside your motorbike as you pass. It isn’t a polished vacation, but it’s an adventure.

Where to Stay

Accomodation on Sumba is sparse. If you want to be close to beautiful beaches and the famous Waikuri Lagoon, Cap Karoso is a great choice. It’s designed to fit into the local culture and landscape, with a huge focus on farm-to-table food and connecting with the island. If surfing’s the point, go for Sumba Beach House & Bar. You’re right on the water and close to the breaks. The rooms are modern and cozy, and the beachfront restaurant actually serves good food—which isn’t a given out here.

Food & Drink

For a proper coffee, Samaarata is the spot. It’s high-quality, Western-style craft coffee, and the setting is genuinely hip without feeling forced. For dinner, The Watu does a good Mediterranean-influenced menu in a nice outdoor setting. If you’re looking for something by the beach, Sumba Beach House & Bar serves filling meals right on the water. It’s simple, reliable, and exactly what you need after a long day.

Out & About

Getting around Sumba is a commitment. You’ll either need to hire a driver or rent a bike. I’d go with the bike; it gives you the flexibility to actually explore.

First stop: Waikuri Lagoon. The water is an unbelievable, vibrant blue that doesn’t look real until you’re staring at it. For a look at traditional life, Praijing Village is the place. It’s the real deal for seeing how people live and those traditional roof structures up close.

If you want a beach all to yourself, track down Watu Bella. It’s tricky to find, which keeps the crowds away. Park the bike at Corner Beach Bar and Resto, walk the coast until you hit a gravel road, and follow it through the village. Once you see the palm-lined cliff edge, you’ve made it.